Trip: 56
Nights: 187-190
We took off Thursday afternoon, headed for the Outer Banks. I love the Outer Banks, but hurricane anxiety keeps me from ever living there. The point of this trip was the 2025 Wings Over Water Birding Festival. We attended last year, and I suspect this is an automatic annual event for us now.
This year's festival was hampered by the government shutdown, as many of the tours were planned on Federal property. Our expert guided trip on Pea Island National Wildlife Sanctuary was canceled. However, the land was open to visitation, just not organized group events. So we still hit Pea Island 3 different times over the weekend, and on several occasions randomly ran into very experienced birders who were very generous in letting me tag along and learn from them. Birders are really great that way.
We got into Oregon Inlet campground after dark on Thursday. When planning my arrival time I forgot to account for just how far east the Outer Banks are from RVA. It was also brutally windy so by the time the camper was set up we simply retired inside for the night. I'm going to guess that wind gusts topped 50 mph that night. The camper was rocking, but it was because of the wind.
Our Friday AM tour at Pea Island Visitor Center was canceled, so we headed over there on our own a little later than the tour would have started. I learned later that I just missed a professional bird guide who was there 30 minutes before we got there. The challenge of the Pea Island ponds was that there were 7500 ducks on the pond. Two of them may have been really interesting, but I lack the waterfowl ID skills to pick them out. I picked out thousands of Northern Pintails and and American Wigeons though. After a lunch break at the camper we went back across the bridge to Pea Island, this time to Bonner Bridge Pier. I was able to ID 11 species, although as I learned the next day, there was way more variety of gulls and terns there than I could ID on my own. For dinner on Friday we had seafood at the cafe attached to the marina across the street from the campground. It was really good, but when accompanied by a beer and glass of wine, and a 20% tip, it was not cheap.
The wind was down to a moderate breeze on Friday night, and we passed the evening playing cards and went to sleep early due to a 730 AM guided tour on Saturday.
The Saturday AM tour was centered around the Bodie Island Lighthouse, where we picked up both a Virginia Rail and a King Rail. The King Rail was a lifer for me. After the tour there some of the group met up unofficially at the pier and then continued on to the ponds, where I absorbed much information about duck and gull identification. I'll probably retain none of it, but I felt smarter that morning. At the pier we found a couple of Clay Colored Sparrows, who should have been somewhere between North Dakota and Mexico. They were just a little off course, but it was another lifer for me on a bird that should not be at the Outer Banks, ever. I overhead the guide mention he had another tour in the afternoon, and I asked him if he or anybody else would care if I crashed it, given all the cancellations and no-shows due to the canceled tours. He was totally okay with it. That afternoon we found every tern and gull you can expect to find at the Outer Banks, except the ironically named Common Tern. Many of them were lifers for me. Also that afternoon we thought we had a Neotropic Cormorant. After much deliberation and looking at the Sibley's guide and in the scope, it was decided we did indeed have a very out of place Neotropic Cormorant. Given the number of birders at the Outer Banks that weekend, it was mere minutes after we reported it that the more sightings came in. There was a healthy debate but ultimately they appear to have decided that it was a abnormally small Double Crested Cormorant, or possibly even a hybrid. I've been watching Ebird and nobody is claiming the Neotropic. So that is one lifer I did not get this weekend.
The Oregon Inlet ares is a good 10 miles beyond the main tourist drag of Nags Head. So it was about a 20 minute drive to any other restaurant, all of which were more expensive and had worse reviews than the cafe at the marina. So we did take out from the cafe for dinner to keep the cost down a bit. Saturday night was, as usual, spent playing cards and enjoying the cool ocean breeze.
Sunday was go home day. If this was a normal weekend, I'd end the happy story here. But this, as it turned out, was not a normal weekend. I did not feel great when we got up, but as guys do, I ignored it and pushed on with packing up the camper and heading home. We pulled out at 9 AM and at 9:01 AM I stopped the camper and ran to the nearest campground bathhouse as I felt sick to my stomach. I did not vomit, and when the nausea passed a few minutes later I headed back to the truck. As I left the bathroom I got very lightheaded and dizzy and felt like I would pass out in seconds. I immediately sat down on the porch of the bathrooms, slumped against the wall between the men's and women's doors, with my headed slumped over, breathing deeply and slowly as I tried to maintain consciousness. My wife came looking for me after about 12 minutes, and I think I was bowing to the porcelain god for about 5 minutes, with means I was on that porch for 5-7 minutes. I am sure I heard the doors open and close 4 to 6 times. Not one person checked on me. I get ignoring the drunk on the streets of San Francisco. But if somebody is immobile on the bathroom porch of a NPS campground at 9 AM on a Sunday morning, they probably need help. Way to go my fellow Americans.
With Michelle's help I got back to the truck and we decided that grabbing a campsite and staying another day was the prudent course of action. I clearly could not do a 3:30 drive, and Michelle was not comfortable towing that far on unfamiliar roads. So after moving the truck a few times to find enough of a cell signal, I booked the campsite right next to the one we left 20 minutes previous, and backed it in. Check in time wasn't until 3 PM, but with the shutdown we had not seen a Ranger all weekend, and I fucking needed to lay down. I was asleep by 930 AM and did not wake up until noon. At noon I had a fever in excess of 101F so my wife gave me no choice about a trip into Nags Head to the nearest Urgent care clinic.The COVID/RSV/Flu test was all negative, so they concluded it some virus and that all I could do was treat the symptoms. At that point we made a back up plan if I could not drive home the next day. Plan A was to see if we could get some sympathy from the marina management to let us leave the camper there for the week. It's the off-season, they had the space. If they said no we were going to simply try to book a campsite until Saturday, leave the camper there, and go home. Luckily, after another 90 minute nap, a dinner of chicken noodle soup, and going to bed at 9:30 PM, I was feeling much better on Monday morning. I drove home with no issues and even booked 4 hours in the home office that afternoon. Being self-employed means my annual paid sicks days are zero.
As I type this on Wednesday evening my fever is still persisting. I was only outdoors with people on Saturday, so I have no idea what I picked up or where I picked it up. It was still an epic weekend though. I got 86 species in two days, 16 of them lifers. I'm at 179 species for the year, passing my 158 of last year. 2023 was 116, and 2022 was 81. The trend line here is obvious, even without a graph to visualize it.